Friday, June 14, 2013

Laperouse Birthday

We were sitting about where this photo was taken from, with window view onto the Seine
JC invited me to dine with him in Paris last night, to celebrate my 49th birthday.  He could not fail to remember to celebrate my birthday this year, after the very unfortunate scene which ensued in the face of his indifference last year...when he decided to program a reminder into his Blackberry one year in advance to ensure no repeat performance.

Anyway, moving swiftly along, the downside of this experience is:  take a chunk out of your savings and kiss it goodbye.  But the rest is all upside.

We went to Laperouse http://www.laperouse.com/ St Michel station on metro line 4, Quai des Grands Augustins, overlooking the road that goes along the Seine which is bordered on the other side by lovely golden sandstone buildings in the sunset under a marble clouded and blue sky.

JC told me that all the Michelin starred restaurants were booked at least one month in advance, and that this one was recommended by Michelin but did not have a star.  I was relieved about this as the food and service and surroundings were so excellent that I cannot imagine one, two or three stars better and I'm sure they would have been wasted on me.
I had no idea where we were going, but my personal pallette was perfectly in keeping
Darling who was I wearing?  Charity Shop Style:  Red silk scarf from brocante, viscose dress from Principles at Barnados, Cardi from M&S

Ladies at the door
The welcome was warm and comfortable, the decor matched mine (sort of greenery-yellowy faded arty aristocracy with splashes of red, both gold and silver why not,  and plenty of twinkle).  The restaurant was traditionally loved by artists and poets, the menu opened with a Beaudelaire poem about wine which was very encouraging on the subject.  We decided on a kir aperatif, with starter and main course and an option on the pud (taken up needless to say), with one glass each of good wine (me red with lamb, he white with fish).

The most excellent food imaginable was sourced, subjected to a secret and sweet alchemy of mixing and cooking, presented as art on the plate and poetry by the waiters.   The wine waiter knew the producers personally, and enjoyed sharing full-bodied descriptions.
Wine waiter on the right
La fleur  de courgette
Cuite moelleuse, mousseline de saumon et beignet croustillant au violet de roche, tomates séchées.

Le bar 
De petit chalut, rôti au citron bio, tombé d’épinard et pomme de terre croustillante à la réglisse.

La selle d’agneau 
Farci d’aubergine grillé et olive taggiasche, polenta croustillantes et caviar d’aubergine.

La fraise 
Au naturel, Gariguette et Marra des bois, coulis vanille de Bourbon, sorbet champagne Rosé.
with spun sugar wafers embedded with mint leaves
with 
Le soufflé Lapérouse depuis 100 ans 
au  praliné noisette, sauce caramel et épice, marmelade d’orange et sorbet orange sanguine.


An uplifting path to inner satiation, peace and good-will
At first bite and at every subsequent bite, the amuse bouches and the avant desserts included, the food made me close my eyes and melt into a particular kind of food-induced ecstasy which I can't quite explain, and which I can only describe as spiritual-emotional, an uplifting path to inner satiation and peace and goodwill.   And the same for each glass of character wine.   I think that taking time to appreciate the beauty and story of the food in combination with its incomparable quality induces a sort of heightened consciousness.

The portions were delicate, emphasis on satisfaction total of taste without overstuffing of the clientelle.  One really good glass of wine was the way to enjoy both food and wine to the full, without being too full or insufficiently conscious to appreciate the full benefits.

Simply perfect food, and simply perfect celebration of attaining a fruitful and generous refined age.

Even the RER engineering works plus work to rule which left us stranded at the wrong station, where by 11pm the taxis had all " gone home"  (very typical French suburbs, do not try to go out after work using public transport)  did not spoil it.    As we set off along a road devoid of street lighting and heavy on puddles,  I decided to hitch, and within minutes a very kind couple stopped and as luck would have it, were driving almost to our door.  This is Grace and I am in a state of it.