We decided to make a pilgrimage from Ercé to Montségur, not realising that with one mountain road 'closed' (late snow apparently, although the natives are outraged and say it is a nonsense), 40 minute detours are obligatory, and the mountain road via Massat must have inspired the Beates 'Long and winding road', and passed through some of the most beautiful mountain scenery I've seen, including 360 degree circles of peaks.
About halfway we realised we wouldn't make it to Montségur village in time to eat, and there appeared an
auberge/restaurant, the sort of venue that would have suited the Made in Chelsea cast had it suffered sufficient investment (which happily it hadn't). Smoke billowed from the kitchen, the asparagus was tinned, but the timing, service and view were splendid.
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